For some obscure misguided reason, I was under the assumption Camp [the Cantonment] area in Pune would be just one road. To add to it, my rather simplistic imagination envisioned Pune’s famed historical churches, built to serve the then Poona’s British Raj gentry, to be standing sentinel on both sides of it in a homogenous line. I could not be more wrong.
After being driven through a maze of wide, empty streets on a Sunday morning, I found myself dropped outside a poker faced, art deco facade by a cab driver with the announcement, “Old church.” Before I could ask or argue he had sped away, and there was I in the slowly rising heat, wondering, my brows raised towards the heavens, where the hell was I?
Almost, as if in answer, a woman with a beaming smile stepped out and wanted to know what I was looking for. Her name was Sheeba Reuben Deshmukh, a counsellor and committee member of the Oldham Methodist Church, the church I had been dropped at.
I explained to her I was a blogger from Mumbai and exploring Pune that weekend.
“Have you been to St. Mary’s?”
“Nope.” [I racked my brains in an effort to try and place it amongst the scores of articles I had pored over the night before.]
“Okay, go straight, then turn right, and at the crossroads … Forget it, let me take you there.” And just like that, with a warm smile and cheerful chatter, she walked with me through wide boulevards flanked by sumptuous villas, past Pune’s iconic schools to an ethereal powder-blue edifice dating back to 1825.
“This is St. Mary’s Church in Camp!”
I had to blink hard. In less than a few random street turns I had been transported back in time to a different era and world.
Left: St. Mary’s Church’s distinctive powder-blue bell tower is topped with a spire rising 103 feet high; Right: The pipe organ inside is the second oldest surviving organ of its kind in India and was imported from England in 1869
The year was 1817. To support its transition from trade to colonial rule started in 1757, the British East India Company had set up a large military base in then Poona. A church to meet the military personnel and rapidly increasing civilian populace’s spiritual needs was the inevitable next step.
St. Mary’s Church was subsequently built in the early-1820s by Lieutenant Nash of the British East India Company’s Engineers and consecrated on 3 July, 1825. Referred to as “The Mother Church of the Deccan” by the Metropolitan of the then Anglican Communion in India, it is the oldest surviving Anglican church in mid-Western India and seats 1,000 worshippers.
In 1970, the Anglican Church in Northern India joined the union of the Church of North India (CNI). St. Mary’s, by default, came under the CNI banner but it continued to carry out its old traditions as well: Worship services are currently in English and held in both the Anglican and CNI formats. On Sundays, these are followed with Contemporary Service.
Post a series of introductions and welcomes by the pastor and members of the various fellowships, supplemented with vivid narratives of the church’s star attractions, I seated myself in one of the front pews. The Contemporary Service was on and a group of young jeans-clad men were singing worship music to the accompaniment of drums, electric guitars, and key boards et al. I had never heard anything like this before.
It was an eclectic mix. 21st Century musical notes and 200-year-old stained glass windows. Gravestones spanning two centuries and the living, hugging and sharing in the life of the church, within its walls. People of different cultures, regions, professions, languages, and backgrounds unified by a common belief and worship.
I am not a Christian. I am an Arya Samaji by birth and secular and spiritual by practice. I was in many respects, one may claim, an outsider and non-believer in St. Mary’s Church. Yet, the warmth of all I met did not diminish one bit. They welcomed me into their community like I was one of their own.
As I was about to pack my camera gear, my new found friend, Sheeba gently slipped a note into my hands: “Thank you for worshipping with us today and we look forward to you joining us in worship again! God bless you!”
I hugged her goodbye, richer for the lovely structure, lilting voices and genuine warm welcome to Christ’s home in Pune.
Come browse my photo essay on St. Mary’s Church in Camp’s many wondrous treasures. I hope you find them equally lovely as I did. ❤
St. Mary’s Church in Camp: Gigantic columns, wooden pews, and two-bladed fans remember another era
Top and bottom left: Stained glass windows above the communion table depict various scenes from the Bible; Bottom right: Detail, Baptistery Window
Being a military church, the Colours [Regimental Flags] of the 16th Native Infantry were laid to rest here in 1902
Left: Detail, pipe organ. Till recently the organ was in use in all church services. It is currently shut down for repairs and restoration to it’s former glory by UK experts at a cost of around Rs. 3 million. It will start playing in a couple of months once again; Right: Gravestone of Sir Robert Grant, Governor of Bombay and author of the hymn “O Worship the King”
St Mary’s Church is lined with numerous memorials and plaques in marble and brass of “sages who wrote and warriors who bled”; Bottom: The teakwood carved cover of the stone baptismal font
Sheeba Reuben Deshmukh: If it wasn’t for her I don’t know if I would have got to visit St. Mary’s Church, and even if I did, I doubt I would have got to see and know it the way I did above. Thank you, Sheeba.
Travel tips:
- Address: St. Mary’s Church (CNI), 1-A Sholapur Road, Camp, Pune – 411001.
- Contemporary Service is held at 10:30 am on Sundays.
- If possible try make your visit on a Sunday so as to capture the church’s warm community vibe.
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Such a beautiful church in Pune, we never knew about it. Thanks for sharing.
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It is a treasure, isn’t it! 🙂
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On.point.
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What i enjoyed was their welcoming attitude, seems it is in their culture. I studied in Convent schools early on and have always respected Christians for their simplicity.
Nice day out for you…guess a perfect weekend?
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Yup, perfect weekend. I will be writing about FTII this week and then closing the 6-part series with 36 hours in Pune. 🙂
The church had a fantastic vibe, and it was more warm for having been allowed into its community. All thanks to Sheeba!
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How wonderful for you to meet Sheeba and so make the visit. Interesting story.
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Yes, that was pure serendipity. 🙂
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Pingback: st mary’s church in camp, the oldest anglican church in the deccan | aadildesai
Such a beautiful church! Thanks!
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Thank you for stopping by, Anamika. 🙂 Glad you enjoyed the read.
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Excellent post. One small correction. Pipe organ is shut down for repair and restoration to it’s former glory by UK experts at a cost of around ₹30.0 lacs. You can hear it playing in a couple of months. Organists are alive and kicking.
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Thank you, Ranjan for pointing it out. Appreciated. 🙂 Have updated the post accordingly.
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🙏🙏
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Your post made me nostalgic! I used to for sunday service during my Pune days.. 🙂 Thank u!
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Hey, small world! Thank you for stopping by. 🙂 Hope you enjoy the rest of my Pune series too, and they bring back more happy memories for you.
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https://lieoj.wordpress.com
Hi guys, im a new blogger. Im actually still groping on how it works so i if u have time, come and visit my site and give me feedback on how i can improve it. Thanks. 😊
Ps. I started witbout any idea at all.😂
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Great find and beautiful write up. Great going!
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Yes, Raj, an absolute gem of a find–both the church and Sheeba who made it come so beautifully alive for me. 🙂 Glad you liked it.
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Loved how you beautifully profiled the church that made my schooling at st. mary’s so much more special.
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Hello Savvy, small world! It is a wonderful church in every way, and you are lucky it was part of your formative years. 🙂
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Pingback: 36 hours in pune | rama arya's blog
Great one Rama..:)
Truly commendable job..!!
http://www.campusautographs.wordpress.com
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Thanks much! 🙂
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Your photos and writings are so beautiful. I deeply appreciate your blog and your travels and I wanted to let you know that I nominated you for the Versatile Blogger Award. You can find the rules here: https://evergreenella.wordpress.com/2017/05/10/the-versatile-blogger-award-2 Thanks!
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Thank you, evergreenella for your lovely comment and the nomination! Deeply appreciated.
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Beautiful…I love visiting churches
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Join the club, marmalademumblog. 🙂
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U need to come to England… There are churches everywhere
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I used to live in London. Did my A levels and Masters there. 🙂 I have a whole series of posts on London too in this blog.
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Wow..brilliant.. And you would recommend living in India??
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Absolutely! I have not regretted my decision to move back even once in the past 6 years. It is not easy, but heck, the pros far outweigh the cons. 🙂
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Great something to consider for the future… Once the kids have flown the nest 😀
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Well written with a vivid description of the Church which also transports you to a time and era gone by. Will definitely plan a pit stop here the next time.
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Am sure you will fall in love with the church too. Do share your visit experience. Would love to read it. 🙂
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Wow
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