“Look up, at the ceiling.” I am broken from my reverie, as I drift through a forest of 172 stone pillars, by my guide Manoj’s voice prodding me to halt in my tracks and raise my eyes, heavenwards.
High up, inside a dome above the main mihrab is the most exquisitely carved sculpture I have seen to date. And I find myself gasping in awe. Is this for real? I am not too sure what stuns me more. Its immense size, the fineness of the swirling leaves, or its incongruous placement—I am in a 500-year-old mosque in Champaner in Gujarat, 50-odd kilometres outside Vadodara, and the sculpture is Hindu-Jain in style and content.
For those new to the eclectic mix of religion and spirituality which makes up India, Jainism, along with Hinduism and Buddhism, is one of the major religions which developed in ancient India.
Built in 1484 by the Sultan of Gujarat, Mahmud Begada, and abandoned in 1535 with the advent of the Mughals, the medieval city of Champaner [Mahmud called it Muhammadabad] is one of India’s finest representations of this eclectic mix. A mix, however, created more by accident rather than any calculated design to propagate secularism.
So how did this happen? Whilst the orders for the mosque’s construction came from a foreign Muslim ruler [the Gujarat Sultans were of Turkish descent], the masons, sculptors and artisans who gave shape to his architectural vision were indigenous Hindus and Jains. The latter, familiar only with their own art, used their personal artistic sensibilities to embellish the structures. The result is a unique style typical to Champaner, later imitated by the British Raj under the name “Indo-Saracenic.” Hence, we have domes and minarets decorated with swastikas and diyas.
The deserted city is now, together with the nearby Pavagadh hill, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its prized centrepiece, Jami Mosque, once the main public mosque crumbles around me under the withering sun, suspended in time, whilst a couple of baboons shriek out at me for trespassing into their home.
With much difficulty, I tear myself away, this time taking a piece of a Hindu-Jain heaven in an Islamic place of worship back with me, promising myself I will blog about it for another kind of posterity. ❤
– – –
You may also like to read Champaner—The Muslim part of the Champaner-Pavagadh UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Breathtaking. And fascinating history. Thanks, as always, for sharing.
LikeLiked by 5 people
Hello Shaun, what a lovely comment! The pleasure is mine. 🙂 Champaner is like a fairytale, a deserted forgotten fairytale replete with towering minarets and laced stonework which lived for just 51 years and was then buried under time.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Beautiful
LikeLiked by 4 people
Many thanks. 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
Incredible 🙂
LikeLiked by 3 people
Yup, a pretty incredible place it is. 🙂
LikeLike
Lovely article. All religions can peacefully coexist if mankind would truly follow them.
LikeLiked by 3 people
Absolutely! 🙂
LikeLiked by 2 people
Jain angle to Indo-Saracenic is certainly a new thing!
LikeLiked by 3 people
Yes, and that was my first reaction too. Manoj, my guide, the ex-sarpanch of Champaner village, and whose father, a professor, has carried out immense research on the site including authoring a book on the Champaner-Pavagadh archaeological site, explained it very easily.
A large portion of Gujarat’s populace has historically been Jain. Most of the artisans were, thus, also Jain. The transposition of their highly ornamental style of filigree in stone into a mosque during the Gujarat Sultanate was a rather natural outcome under the circumstances. The Indo-Saracenic style, as we all know, was inspired by the architecture of the Gujarat Sultanate. In conclusion: the evolution of art and architecture is often times very logical. 🙂
LikeLiked by 2 people
That’s quite logical. Its true that there were large number of Jains in Gujarat like Rajasthan. So this angle seems to fit in very well. Happy to come across this piece of information. Thanks Rama for this input. 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
saya ingin membuat blog, supaya saya sukses
LikeLiked by 2 people
Oh my! What beauty…and your elegant use of language describes the scene with intricate detail.
Thank you for sharing this experience
LikeLiked by 4 people
Nice one as usual ! Regards 🙂
LikeLiked by 5 people
Thank you very much, pacoplaza2017. 🙂
LikeLiked by 1 person
Thank you for stopping by and commenting, Tipsy. Deeply appreciated. Am humbled by your generous praise and grateful that you enjoyed the read. 🙂
LikeLiked by 2 people
Pingback: global travel shot: champaner, a 500-year-old indo-saracenic poem in stone — rama arya’s blog – efanc
Nice… Plz visit rjfaithnlove.WordPress.com
LikeLiked by 3 people
You have an interesting blog — lots of gyan on love and relationships. Good luck and keep spreading the light. 🙂
LikeLiked by 2 people
Thanks a lot 🙂
LikeLiked by 2 people
Good
LikeLiked by 2 people
Thank you for visiting my blog. 🙂
LikeLike
thank you for sharing your beautiful description of the stunning artwork
LikeLiked by 1 person
And thank you for taking the time to read my post and comment on it. 🙂 Appreciated.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Enjoyed your photo & your comments on being there.✌️
LikeLiked by 2 people
Welcome to my blog, dogleadermysteries. Am happy you found the post enjoyable. 🙂
LikeLiked by 2 people
Pingback: Increible blog sobre la India – Paco Angel de la Peña
Pingback: global travel shot: champaner, a 500-year-old indo-saracenic poem in stone | aadildesai
The artwork is just amazing… Would like to stop by sometime and admire this beauty. And I would like to show my work. As it is a photography blog.
Streets of Himalayas.
https://tanzie136.wordpress.com/
Stay tuned for more.
LikeLiked by 3 people
Champaner is a photographer’s delight. I hope you make it to the archaeological site some day. And yes, I visited your blog. Good luck with it. 🙂 PS. The picture of the mountain girl is lovely.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Pingback: The Sun Temple in Modhera in Gujarat - indiapalette.com