Yin and yang. Negative and positive. Feminine and masculine. Dark and light. Two sides which together make a whole.
Sidi Saeed, an Ethiopian who found his way to the Gujarat Sultanate’s army via Yemen, way back in 1572, seemed to have some inkling of this. Armed with 45 sculptors, “the nobleman who helped the poor and had a large collection of books,” created a series of jalis or stone screens as part of the Sidi Saeed Mosque in the heart of Ahmedabad. The most exquisite was the “tree of life” with its swirling, leaf-lined, abloom branches, topped with a palm motif; its beauty heightened when seen from both the outside and inside. It was hard put to decide which side was a lovelier sight.
Little did Saeed know his work of art would become the very identity of the city 450 years after his death. That it would be used by the elite IIM Ahmedabad, heritage walks, consumer brands, and even contribute to the declaration of the old town as India’s first UNESCO World Heritage City.
The mosque, commissioned by Sultan Muzaffar Shah III, comprised 11 screens in total in its original plan. But the Mughals invaded Gujarat during Shah III’s reign, the Gujarat Sultanate fell, and the three-sided mosque was passed on to posterity with only four screens instead. But more importantly, with its “tree of life.” The yin and yang. The branches and leaves. The outer physical beauty and the light streaming in. ❤
Superb
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Thank you, Alfred. 🙂 Love the experiences you recount on your blog. I used to live in Botswana and South Africa before moving to India, so traveled quite a bit in the region. You doing great work. Much needed work.
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Thank you Rama. Ian
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These are incredible. Thank you for sharing!
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Thank you for stopping by and commenting, Gracefully Global. Appreciated. 🙂 I am going to Los Angeles this coming January. Any recommendations?
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Hi Rama , you might remember me from the Heritage walk ! Lovely read your reflections on Ahemdabad . The Sidi Saeed jaali’s were breathtakingly beautiful.
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The doctor from the UK, her pretty cousin who lives in Ahmedabad, or the generous soul who bought us all our brunch? I am sorry, please refresh my memory. I am not very good with names. 😦 Glad you enjoyed the post though. I will be writing one on the old city itself and another on the northern triad–Patan, Modhera and Siddpur. Hope you enjoy the series. 🙂
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These pictures are awesome.
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Thanks much, Meenakshi. The jalis are truly beautiful–even better in real. 🙂
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Love the way you bring your style to tell the beautiful story… Love that pinch of details and the references.. Keep wrting
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Thank you for your generous words and encouragement. Deeply appreciated. I enjoy writing and travelling, and I guess the two show through. 🙂
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Global POW Intell World Explorer [thumbs up]
https://incyberexpert.wordpress.com
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Beautiful 👌 keep writing .
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Thanks much, Suma. 🙂 For visiting my blog and encouraging me to keep blogging. Appreciated. Varanasi is a traveller’s delight. Am happy I was able to communicate some of its magic.
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