It is 7:00 am. The sun has just broken through the Arabian horizon, wrapping the golden desert in a lilac mantle pinned by a lone morning star and a shimmering moon.

I am on the outskirts of Buraidah in north-central Saudi Arabia. Every morning, thousands of camels are traded in its camel market [the world’s largest] reaching a frenzy within an hour of the dawn prayers. A marketplace that has remained unchanged in the Kingdom for centuries—unchanged by the advent of oil, gas, or USD.

There are calves wailing for their mommies, preening hedonistic camels in the prime of their youth, and foaming giant males trying to attract a mate. In all shades of brown, black, and creamy white. Amidst them are frenetic auctioneers calling out bids whilst buyers ponder and inspect the animals’ gums and teeth. Interested, but careful not to look too interested.

At times I find myself caught inside a trading circle. At times I am about to be knocked over by a massive irritated camel fed up with the chaos. A kindly Arab picks me up by the shoulders, places me out of the way, and carries on with business as usual.

Saudi Arabia’s large one-humped dromedary camel is synonymous with the Kingdom. The species, in its efforts to adapt to the hot desert sands, has developed some rather unusual physical characteristics: double rows of lashes, nostrils that can close, padded feet, and a hump filled with fat to provide energy for the days without food and water. Both, a pack animal and mode of transport, it has always been an intrinsic part of the Arabian identity.

By 9:00 am the grounds are emptied of the spectacle. Those camels bought, off with their new owners. And those unsold, back in their pens, picked up by cranes, for another round of bidding the next day.

It is time for me to leave too.

[Note: I travelled through Saudi Arabia for 17 days in January-February this year. To read more posts in my Saudi Arabia series, click here.]

Getting ready for the morning auction.

We are just babies.

The crooners of Buraidah Camel Market.

Romance is in the air.

This male dromedary camel is foaming not because he is ill, but to attract the ladies.

The unchanged wheeling and dealing across centuries.