The relationship between Georgia and Russia is, well—complicated. Irrevocably woven, yet defiantly independent, Georgia’s past avatar as the Georgian Soviet Socialist Republic still peeps through across the country. You only need to look. A brutalist masterpiece. A colossal deserted mine with cable cars still frozen mid-air in space and time. Poker-faced apartment blocks sliced with horizontal walkways and plunging lifts. Magnificent abandoned sanatoriums built over healing springs that have given way to tall overgrown trees, moss, and wildflowers.
An urbex paradise. A lesson that nothing lasts forever.
Twice, Georgia proclaimed its independence from Russia’s rule. First, albeit briefly, in 1918, and then again in 1991. Tbilisi’s Museum of Soviet Occupation, housed in the national museum, pays an evocative homage to local resistance and the snuffing out of Georgia’s creative elite during the 70 years it was part of the Soviet Union [USSR]. Meanwhile Moscow still celebrates its ex-Republics at the VDNKh Exhibition of Achievements of National Economy and modern-day Russians throng the historically familiar streets of Tbilisi in search of the perfect weekend getaway.
Soviet Georgia took birth in 1921, post the Russian Civil War, and ended abruptly under former USSR President Mikhail Gorbachev in 1991. During these 70 long years, Georgia’s fertile lands and mineral-rich mountains were a key source of food and manganese for the world’s largest country. It was a contribution that warranted the construction of the Soviet Union’s 4th metro station in 1966 in Tbilisi, and the large-scale expansion of Georgia’s railway line to export its agricultural produce en-masse.
But these years also saw forced famines and abject poverty, ironically because of a son of its own soil.
Entrance to the Joseph Stalin Underground Printing House Museum in Tbilisi.
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