Category Archives: Rajasthan

the complete travel guide to the hidden gems of jhalawar

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24 blog posts. 5 weeks of travel. A road trip of a lifetime.

What better way to end my Rajasthan series than with a travel guide on Jhalawar. Off the tourist radar, choc-o-bloc with hidden rarely-visited gems, and a laid-back vibe. It is screaming out to be explored. But since there is so little known or publicized about it, it ends up, unfortunately, getting sidelined, and fortunately [for the traveller] offers an opportunity to explore Rajasthan in a time-warped state. The way it used to be.

Here’s Jhalawar’s story and sights, written with valuable inputs from Mahijit Singh, the direct descendant of its Rajput rulers, who still lives in Jhalawar, in Virendra Bhawan. And guess what, his home is a homestay! But more of that later in the post.

Here’s wishing you happy travels in Jhalawar. 🙂 Continue reading →

chittorgarh: stories of valour, jauhar, and gods

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“I long not to visit Ganga Sagar, Rameshwar or Kashi. It is only for Chittor that my eyes are always thirsty.”

Rajasthan’s folklore and ballads are filled with mention of Chittorgarh. Take this one as well for instance:

“If there is a fort to be reckoned with, it is Chittorgarh. The rest are mere fortresses.”

It was not just the bastions, masonry, and structures these lines referred to, which were of course mighty, but also its men and women and their unshakable grit.

Considered one of Rajasthan’s most formidable forts, Chittorgarh was famous for its sophisticated military architecture, wealth, and heroic rulers. It served as Mewar’s capital from the dynasty’s founding in the 8th Century to 1553 when Udaipur was established, and continued to be used until Mewar became part of independent India.

Despite three sieges over 1,300 years, Mewar’s rulers always managed to regain control of it. Whilst most other Rajput kingdoms surrendered to the Mughals, Mewar and Chittorgarh stood firm. When it did go into an alliance it was, more often than not, on its own terms.

The fort complex, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, comprises seven city gates, 65 historical buildings, four palaces, 19 large temples and 20 water bodies [there were 84 back in its heyday to meet the needs of its 50,000-strong army for up to four years] spread over 700 acres, 590 feet above the ground. A village is enclosed within its walls since medieval times.

Let me take you on a virtual journey through Chittorgarh, filled with stories of valour, jauhar, and gods. 🙂 Continue reading →

36 hours in alwar, the road less travelled

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Have a long weekend coming up?

Alwar comes with the distinction of being one of India’s oldest cities, as well as the capital of one of Rajasthan’s newest Rajput kingdoms. Part of Delhi’s National Capital Region [NCR], it scores high on Delhiites’ weekend destination lists. For those travelling deep and wide in Rajasthan [as in my case], the town perched on Rajasthan’s eastern border offers a welcome, albeit last taste of the wonders the State is famed for.

Back in 1500 BC, Alwar was part of the Kingdom of Matsyadesh. According to the Hindu epic Mahabharata, this is where the Pandavas spent the last year of their 13-year exile incognito. As a Rajput kingdom, it was formed in 1770 by the Kachhwaha Rajput Pratap Singh.

Unlike Rajasthan’s other treasures, Alwar can appear somewhat bland at the outset. But, behind this front is a rich mix of travel experiences just waiting to be enjoyed.

So, I repeat my question. Got a long weekend coming up? Here’s how to make the most of it in Alwar, with one day devoted to its popular sights and unknown secrets, and one day for an excursion back in time. Happy travels. ❤ Continue reading →

travel diaries: in search of the bengal tiger at ranthambore

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It was pitch dark outside. I fumbled for my phone to switch off the alarm. My heart was heady with excitement at the day that lay ahead of me.

I was at Ranthambore National Park, and had an early morning game drive to catch in an hour. Shucks. There went my heart, dancing all over the place again.

Seeing wildlife is a hit-and-miss affair, I rationalised to my heart. There were no guarantees. I should know, having spent a large chunk of my life in Botswana and South Africa where visits to game parks were a quintessential part of one’s existence. But not in India. I had made a long drive from Jhalawar last night, just for this.

Whenever I enter game parks, it always strikes me that these lands are both, ruled and belong, to the animal kingdom. We, humans, are the outsiders here. It is their laws that govern its inhabitants. It is another world and we have no place in it.

I felt exactly the same way as we crossed the gates of Zone 2 into a world of dense forests and hiding eyes. There was silence everywhere except for the occasional shriek of a chital or monkey. A warning that the Kings of this Kingdom, the Royal Bengal Tigers, were out in search of prey.

Deep in the Park’s depths an hour later, we were straining for a sound, any sound, that would give a hint on the exact whereabouts of its grandest residents. Scouring the earth for some lead. Waiting patiently, with bated breath, our eyes darting in all directions. Continue reading →

a self-guided temple and craft trail from udaipur

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To the north of Udaipur are a group of small towns and villages famed for their temples and centuries-old handicrafts. They make for a delightful leisurely excursion filled with opportunities galore of experiencing colourful local religious practices and interacting with artists and artisans, away from touristy sights.

The trail starts from Udaipur with stops at Sahasra Bahu Temple, Eklingji Temple, Nathdwara Temple, the Pichwai painters’ neighbourhood in Nathdwara, and the small-scale terracotta workshops in Molela Village, and finally back to Udaipur.

It is easily doable on one’s own. All you would need to do is hire a cab for the 116-kilometre-long journey which amounts to some three hours of driving time.

Here is a visual [where photography is allowed] guide on what to see and do along the trail, an introduction to some of the artisans and artists, together with some tips to make the most of the day trip. Happy travels!

Continue reading →

the glories of mewar: impregnable kumbhalgarh and exquisite ranakpur

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There was an invincible grandeur associated with the Kingdom of Mewar in Rajasthan, of which Udaipur was the capital. Traits which reflected in not just the larger-than-life personas of its rulers but its impregnable forts and exquisite places of faith too.

Deep in the wooded Aravalli Hills are two such places: Kumbhalgarh and Ranakpur. Whilst one is a fort of a king remembered to this day for his valour and indomitable spirit, the other is a temple carved out of marble to give shape to a divine dream, with the blessings of the same king.

The route leading to them is treacherous in parts, cutting through the dark, unlit, uninhabited jungle in the form of a rather worn-out pot-holed narrow road. At others, it rises and falls in tune with the hills, passing tiny hamlets and endless herds of livestock. But the rewards for this journey are priceless.

Come, let me show you Maharana Kumbha’s Mewar. ❤ Continue reading →

11 reasons udaipur needs to be on every travel bucket list

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Udaipur. The very name is evocative of ethereal clear lakes and romantic palaces, encircled by a ring of lush hills.

Known by various monikers such as City of Lakes, White City, and Venice of the East—all equally valid—it is unlike any other city in the State, or even the country. It is also Rajasthan’s most popular tourist destination so be prepared for the crowds.

Udaipur was founded in 1553 by Maharana Udai Singh II, ruler of the Mewar Kingdom, who named it Udayapura. Chittorgarh, the old capital had been laid siege to by the Mughal Emperor Akbar. A new capital was needed. What better place than the hilly banks of a medieval freshwater lake in the midst of a fertile valley, separated from the Thar Desert by the Aravalli Range.

To protect his city, Udai Singh II built a six-kilometre-long wall punctuated with seven gates around it. Within were palaces, temples, havelis and courtyards, which still stand, largely intact. The precinct today is called the Old City.

Mewar has always stood apart from other Rajput States with its insistence to not bow down before the Mughals or for that matter any other kingdom. The few times treaties were signed, it was always on Mewar’s terms. Stories of its heroes’ bravery and sacrifices echo throughout the city. Maharana Kumbha, Maharana Sanga, and Maharana Pratap are household legends. But more of them in later posts.

For now, let me share with you the wonders of Rajasthan’s jewel. Have you been to Udaipur? If not, here are 11 reasons why it should be on every travel bucket list. ❤ Continue reading →

india travel shot: a temple for a rajput biker and his enfield

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Last year, during the months of October-November, I travelled across Rajasthan by road with different cabs for each leg of my 35-day journey. I soon started to notice one constant element across the taxis’ dashboards. They had a framed photo of a young turbaned gentleman, either perched on it or hanging from the rear-view mirror. My first thought was: he must be a relative of the driver. But when the photograph kept cropping up in almost every cab, I was confused. All the drivers could not exactly be related to the same man.

So, I asked, though I really did not want to sound nosy or offend anyone.

What emerged was a story which, I mused, could only happen in India! But before I share the story, I was also told there was a special site associated with the turbaned gentleman and it was on the highway connecting Jodhpur with Udaipur. When I asked rather hesitantly if one could stop at it, my then driver laughed. “Whether you like it or not, your driver will stop there.” Continue reading →

36 hours in jodhpur, capital of the kingdom of marwar

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“The work of angels, fairies and giants … built by Titans and coloured by the morning sun … He who walks through it loses sense of being among buildings. It is as though he walked through mountain gorges.”
~ Rudyard Kipling, English author, 1900

Kipling was referring to Mehrangarh Fort in the above lines. Jodhpur city’s magnum opus.

It is hard to separate the two. The Fort and the City of Jodhpur.

Jodhpur, or Jodhana as the locals refer to it or Blue City as tourists know it, was established as a result of the fort. Yet, it was the city which sustained the citadel, towering 122 metres above it, for 550 years.

Deep in the heart of the scorching arid Thar Desert, the ensemble seems to be straight out of a fantastical fable. Narrow twisting lanes encircle the foothills of the precipitous rocky outcrop topped with Mehrangarh Fort chiselled out of the rock. Except that it is all for real.

The year was 1459. Rao Jodha, the 15th Rathore clan ruler of the Marwar Kingdom was convinced the old capital Mandore was not safe anymore and set out to find a new one, which he did. A crag with endless views across the plains. He called his new city Jodhpur, after himself.

Priests and traders soon flocked to the city to provide religion and commerce. Rao Jodha’s descendants and their queens not only added palaces to the fort, but also temples and stepwells in the bustling streets below. There was no looking back now. Though the old city has expanded well beyond its city walls and gates to become Rajasthan’s second largest city, its historical heart is easily explored on foot or a tuk tuk.

Here’s a 36-hour itinerary to discover Jodhpur’s wonders. Day 1 for the Have-To’s and Day 2 to feel its pulse. Wishing you happy travels, because some places still appear to be straight out of a fairy-tale. 🙂 Continue reading →

stepwells and temples of jodhpur’s old city

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Should you find yourself in Jodhpur, one of Rajasthan’s most stunning cities, it is but natural to want to rush off to explore all its tantalizingly magnificent sites. But hey, hold on. Want to get a pulse of the real Jodhpur as well, the one lived by the locals, sans any tourists? You will need to look elsewhere—in its stepwells and temples. That’s where local life pulsates in all its glory.

And that’s what this post is about.

Rakshasa Ravana as Jodhpur’s son-in-law

But firstly, an interesting piece of mythology. Ravana, the Rakshasa [demon] and King of Lanka, and the primary adversary in the ancient Hindu epic Ramayana is also Jodhpur’s son-in-law. Whilst the whole country burns effigies of Ravana during the Dussehra festival, to proclaim the victory of good over evil, something completely different happens in Jodhpur. Here the Brahmin priests carry out rituals as per Hindu traditions for their ancestors, namely, Ravana.

The reason being 9 kilometres north of Jodhpur is the historical city of Mandore. Ravana’s wife Mandodari was from here.

Gulab Sagar, a wealthy concubine’s gift to Jodhpur


It is often argued that before the arrival of the British in India, caste, class, and creed were way more fluid in the subcontinent. The story of Gulab Rai gives some credibility to this theory.

Gulab Rai started off as a female slave in Maharaja Vijay Singh’s [1752 – 93] court in Jodhpur. The year was 1766. She was beautiful, smart, and talented. Before long, the King was head over heels in love with her and had made her a Paswan, highest in the ranks of the concubines, to be always by his side.

She rose in wealth and political powers, using her influence for social good. Spanned by a bridge, Jodhpur’s largest lake, Gulab Sagar, was her gift to the city. At one end of the lake is an arched gateway which leads to a Shiva temple and a small pool, then used by the royal ladies for bathing and worship.

Gulab Rai’s story, however, had a sad ending. To ensure her offspring would make no claims to the throne, her son was killed by rivals. Jealous of her powers, she was murdered in 1792. Heartbroken, Vijay Singh died the following year. All that remains is her lake, and a temple. But more of the latter, later in the post.

Mahila Bagh Jhalra, an Irishman’s ‘clean-up’ mission

Adjacent to the sprawling Gulab Sagar with Mehrangarh Fort in the distance is the smaller, more compact Mahila Bagh Jhalra which holds the spill-over waters of Gulab Sagar.

When I went, it was filthy. Hence, the rather meaningless picture above of just the wall. But for a brief period, some years ago, it shone in all its splendour because of a 70-year-old Irishman by the name of Caron Pierre. He would spend five to seven hours every day cleaning the muck on the steps and in the water. Which he succeeded at. Albeit without much help from the locals, who often mocked his efforts instead.

He hasn’t been around for a long time and the stepwell is dirty again. Mr. Pierre, in the event that you ever read this post, I want to tell you that Mahila Bagh Jhalra misses you dearly and loves you for making her shine, even if it was fleetingly.

Tapi Baori, Jodhpur’s secret stepwell

If you haven’t seen Tapi Baori, then you haven’t seen Jodhpur. That’s the general local opinion. It takes some determination to find the stepwell. Despite being right in the heart of the old city, the crumbling multi-level rose-red sandstone baori is completely hidden from the casual eye and is poignantly lovely.

Until tap water was introduced, Tapi Baori provided Jodhpur’s residents free clean drinking water for some 350 years. It was built by Natho Ji Vyas, Prime Minister of Maharaja Jaswant Singh l, founder of Jodhpur. Its impressive measurements at 360 feet deep, 40 feet wide, and 250 feet long make for a huge, silent refuge.

Toorji Ka Jhalra, Jodhpur’s public swimming pool

Just a few hundred metres away from Jodhpur’s Clock Tower is the stunning Toorji Ka Jhalra. Continuing a tradition in which royal women built public water works, the stepwell is the handiwork of Maharaja Abhay Singh’s consort in the 1740s.

The 200-feet-deep sandstone edifice is decorated with jharokas and medallions and exquisite carvings of deities including Saraswati and Ganapati.

As part of an urban regeneration project, it is surrounded with trendy cafes, shops, and hotels. One would, thus, expect it to be filled with tourists. But it is not. As the sun rises and starts to scorch the city, both local children and adults alike find their way to its cool clean waters for a much-needed swim.

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From stepwells to temples. In case it has started to seem from this post that it is only Jodhpur’s stepwells which are steeped in stories and part of everyday Jodhpur life, its temples beg to differ. The latter take the traveller a notch deeper into community life. Read on … 🙂



Shri Gangshyam Ji Mandir, built specially for a Queen’s idol of Krishna



Though the edifice of Shri Gangshyam Ji Mandir was repaired in 1986, the temple itself goes back to 1761 when one of Maharaja Vijay Singh’s queens from Sirohi insisted on bringing an idol of Krishna along with her as part of her dowry. Shri Gangshyam Ji Mandir was specially built to house the effigy. All her life, without fail, the queen would make the journey from the Mehrangarh Fort to the temple in her palanquin to pray. Don’t miss the stunning murals on the walls and ceilings, all part of the original structure.

Following a medieval tradition, the temple is the site of Holi celebrations every year in which devotees are drenched in gulal and water in the presence of the gods. Makes for great photo opportunities, and yes, the participants are happy to be photographed.

Kunj Bihari Mandir, Gulab Rai’s statement of power and love



Close to Jodhpur’s Clock Tower Market is the crowded temple square lined on all four sides by temples interspersed with stalls selling colourful garlands, fragrant incense sticks, and busy sweetmeat shops. One particular temple deserves special mention here: the 18th Century Kunj Bihari Mandir dedicated to Krishna.

Gulab Rai, Maharaja Vijay Singh’s favourite concubine, commissioned the temple. Guarded by an imposing marble toran and topped with a towering shikhara, it appears at first glance to be a copy of Shri Gangshyam Ji Mandir.

If ever there was a doubt about the powers a concubine could weld, the Kunj Bihari Mandir puts it to rest. A mural high up on the wall in the mandapa or main hall depicts her and the Maharaja, as a legitimate couple, expressing their devotion to the Krishna Vallabha cult.

Achal Nath Shivalaya, Jodhpur city’s oldest Shiva temple

One last temple that requires inclusion in this post is the double shivling Achal Nath Shivalaya in the temple square. In a society which comprises predominantly of Krishna followers, temples to Shiva are far and few in Jodhpur.

Which is where Achal Nath Shivalaya comes in. Built by Nanak Devi, Rao Ganga Rathore’s queen in 1531, it is also Jodhpur’s oldest Shiva temple. Despite being plastered over in recent years with ceramic tiles—an aesthetic sacrilege that has not made any dent to its sanctity—devotees flock to it with much fervour, their murmured chants accompanied with ringing bells and incense smoke.

Like all Hindu temples, Achal Nath Shivalaya includes shrines to other Hindu deities as well. Of particular significance is the Shrine of Baba Ramdev to its right, Rajasthan’s most popular indigenous deity.

Baba Ramdev aka Ramdeo Pir, Rajasthan’s ruler turned deity

Travelling through Rajasthan, a local deity you are bound to come across time and again is Baba Ramdev. Although worshipped in pockets in other Indian states, he is omnipresent in Rajasthan. In fact, were you to show ignorance or think it is the 21st Century yoga guru who is being referred to instead, be prepared to be scoffed.

Seated on a horseback, bearded, bejewelled, and dressed as a king, he was a 14th Century ruler [1352 – 85] said to have had miraculous powers. He spent his life uplifting the poor and downtrodden and is still the favoured deity for the impoverished. There are temples dedicated to him throughout Rajasthan.

Baba Ramdev is also one of those few Indian deities who has managed to cross creed and borders. For the Hindus he is Baba Ramdev, for the Muslims he is Ramdeo Pir. He is worshipped in Rajasthan in India and in Sindh in Pakistan.

At age 33 he took samadhi, a state in which the soul leaves the body in full awareness. He lies buried in Ramdevra near Jaisalmer along with five Muslim Pirs from Mecca and his close Hindu disciples. Seven hundred years on, his birth anniversary is celebrated with a public holiday in Rajasthan and a two-month festival at his burial site.

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With this, I come to the end of my post. A humble attempt to get to the pulse of the city, often overlooked by tourists. For travel is more than just seeing the sights. ❤

Travel tips:

  • Staying there: I stayed at the ultra arty-funky The Arch Boutique Homestay in the heart of the old city through Booking.com.
  • Getting to Jodhpur: I used Rajputana Cabs for an intercity drop from Jaisalmer.
  • Getting around in Jodhpur: I used a tuk-tuk or walked.
  • How many days?: I stayed for 5 days.
  • I explored Jodhpur’s stepwells and temples with the Stepwells and Temples of Jodhpur Walking Tour run by Virasat Experiences.

[Note: This blog post is part of a series from my 35-day solo and independent road trip through Rajasthan from 17 October to 20 November, 2021. To read more posts in my Rajasthan series, click here.]